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Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12023
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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Our Maytag top loading washing machine leaks when filling.

Resolved Question:

Our Maytag top loading washing machine leaks when filling. Initially, this only occurred when hot water was filling, which we did not use very often. Now it occurs when hot or cold are filling. Does not leak at other times of operation (wash cycle, rinse cycle, spin cycle, etc.). Electrical schematic says Model A207. Need (1) general repair manual or other general reference, (2) checklist for steps to do repair, (3) where parts are available, if they are needed and cannot be gotten at a hardware store. Would like to do repair myself.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Bryan replied 5 years ago.
these parts for this machine are available, more than likely it the water injector thats leaking. if you look on the bottom of the front panel at an angle you will see 2 phillip head screws remove them and pull the front panel out at the bottom and it will release at the top clips. put it asside and look on the left side near the top and fill machine and if the water is cooming from ther its the injector assembly, click here to bring up the injector parts you will need to replace parts 444984 and 400646 to repair this. hope this helps thanks Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12023
Experience: 15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
Bryan and 10 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Found more information: Washer is Model A207, Series 01, SN 198356WZ.
Got part of the process from what you said (seems like a good start) but need a different part or parts and more instructions. See possible next steps below. The parts you mentioned don't seem involved, as will be explained.
Removed front panel. Found and removed screws at front top left and right that hold the front of top down and lifted front of top (you omitted these steps). Not sure I did it right just lifting it up at the front. Should the top assembly be taken off entirely?
Water is leaking from near the upstream end of a somewhat larger cross section diameter U-shaped tube (the U-shape is positioned in a horizontal plane), the downstream end of which turns downward into the tub. This tube is not one of the parts you mentioned. (Possibly it could be part no. 435487 pictured at URL http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-+A207-%3d%3di435487&PartID=435487, est. $32.10 )
This tube is similar in shape to the U-shape formed by the index finger of your curled left hand with thumb pointing down. The tip of your finger is the upstream end of the tube that fits into a connection to another hose at a bracket mounted to the top left side of the frame. The downstream end of the tube is turned in the direction of your thumb and fits into and connects with tub. Hard to describe the radius of curvature (bigger than your index finger) or the tube diameter (larger than the diameter of the hose next upstream of it), etc., but size and tube diameter obviously must fit right.
Can't tell whether the water is leaking from that U-shaped tube or from the tube just upstream of it (looks like that might be the case, but can't be sure), since the leakage is where they come together.
The other, upstream tube possibly could be part no. 1798 pictured at URL http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-+A207-%3d%3di1798&PartID=1798 , est $15.25. This tube is not one of the parts you mentioned either.
The problem could be in either tube or possibly something to do with the bracket where they connect, or possibly all three. There is a short tube, not previously mentioned, that goes inside both of the other tubes. In other words, both rubber tubes are the female part of the connection, and the short tube is the male part.
Couldn't see another area of leakage but maybe there is one, because it seems strange that before it leaked only when filling with hot water (which has lower water pressure), whereas now it also leaks when filling with cold (which has higher water pressure).
Possible next steps:
So, what should I do? Need to confirm the part numbers for the parts needed and whether they sell separately or as an assembly which might be less expensive. Might be a good idea to replace the whole assembly (both tubes and the short connecting tube), but then need instructions on how to connect the second (upstream) tube at the hard to reach upstream connection point mounted to the back of the washer.
Should I try simply cutting 1/2 inch off the second (upstream) tube at its downstream end and attempt to reconnect it, hoping that it won't leak once the connection is being made with new rubber? [This might not work because the connecting portion of the tube has an enlarged diameter. Also, then it might be too short.]
Maybe the short connecting tube should be replaced instead. It looks black, like rubber tubing that could wear out. If so, what size, what length, what part number, where to get it, and how to do the replacement? Also, are there other places for parts beside RepairClinic.com, which omits many parts..
Finally, am I missing something? Especially, could there be another leak somewhere else? (I suppose I should fix what I see and wait to see of that fixes it.)
Thanks for your help so far.XXX@XXXXXX.XXX
Expert:  Bryan replied 5 years ago.
I was going to get more into how to repair it when you let me know if that was the area the water was comming from , sorry should have mentioned that , I didn't want you taking the top up until necessary . that is definately the injector thats leaking from what your saying.allot of people just eliminate the injector all together by getting a plastic tube at loves the same diameter as the two hoses and just connecting them and using hose clamps same size. the clear plastic piece# 3259 goes inside the smaller rubber piece # 444984 then the whole assembly goes into the part # 1798 then you re clamp everything back together if you dicide to just take the injector out this is the other piece you will need to remove to put the two hoses together.Part 1529 the injector is made to airrate the water and keep it from backing into water system but no other machine has this and they work fine. hope th helps. thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Hi, Bryan
I'm trying to follow what you're saying, but you didn't mention the U-shaped tube, part no. 435487, and my setup might be a little different.
Does part no. 1529 mount into the "bracket mounted to the top left side of the frame" as mentioned above? Should I worry about whether it will fit into the mounting bracket the same as the current plastic part that fits there?
Not sure I understand which end of the clear plastic injector (part no. 3259) goes into which end of the black rubber air gap fill injector tube (part no. 444984), and then how the other end of 444984 connects to the supply hose (part no. 1798, which I previously called the "upstream tube").
Also, not sure how 444984 connects to the
U-shaped tube, part no. 435487. Presumably, this is done using part no. 1529.
Not sure my Maytag had something like the clear plastic injector (part no. 3259) or the black rubber air gap fill injector tube (part no. 444984). That design might have come with a later Series. It seems to combine aeration with anti-backflow (?). That probably means the order of assembly is pretty important.
Is there a trick to attaching the supply hose to the
hard to reach upstream connection point mounted to the back of the washer?
Can I save the supply hose (part no. 1798) so as not to have to fiddle with that connection point in back?
I don't mind replacing
the U-shaped tube, part no. 435487, since it looks pretty dirty.
I hope you'll explain about the top, whether it just hinges up or gets removed entirely.
Please also discuss alternative places, if any, to get the parts.
Do you recommend putting it back together for now and ordering the parts (which ones?) so it'll be operational until the parts arrive? Normal shipping takes an e
stimated 7 business days.
Thanks again for your help.
Expert:  Bryan replied 5 years ago.
ok the easiest way to check this is to lift the top of machine, look inside on the very sides looking up with a flashlight and you will see two 7/16 I think screws going into the top to hold it down, remove these and lift top from the front and let it lean back against wall , this will make it easy for you to see the whole assembly. your right about aerator and back flow and once you get top up I'm sure you will then see what needs to be replaced. the parts are not very expensive and you might want to replace all of them to be safe. when you get the top up you can then see how this goes together, I would order the parts and then pull it apart so you remember where everything goes back. hope this helps, thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Hi, Bryan
Thanks for your response. I still have a couple questions.
First, let me list parts in what I think is downstream order:
A. supply hose, part no. 1798
B.
clear plastic injector, part no. 3259
C.
black rubber air gap fill injector tube, part no. 444984
D.
plastic connector, part no. 1529
E.
U-shaped tube, part no. 435487
Question 1: The top of my washer is not screwed down in back. It's just hinged. Once removed, will it be hard to put back and align correctly?
Question 2: How are A-B-C-D assembled? It appears B should be inserted into D, with downstream end of B extending beyond D's side openings. Well, the current set up has enlarged end of A connected to the upstream barbed end of D -- will new installation be same? If so, what is function of C, and how and where is it installed? RepairClinic.com says that C is a "common cause for leak at top left corner of outer tub."
Question 3: My other concern is that B's rectangular slots (left side of photo) seem long enough to overlap D's side openings. I hope that's not the case, because if they overlap, water could leak through B's rectangular slots and through D's side openings. Is this an issue?
Question 4: Should I re-use existing hose clamps on the upstream end of A and both sides of D? They might not be as tight as ordinary hose clamps ("side-threaded" bands tightened by tangent screw) but they're probably more easily accessible.
Answers to these questions should allow ordering parts. Thanks again for your help.


. . .
Expert:  Bryan replied 5 years ago.
ok first off dont remove the back screws holding hinge. just take the front ones I told you about earlier and lift it up and lean it back . uasually all you need to replace on this is the injector pieces 400646 the fill injector nozzle and the black rubber air gap fill injector tube . the fill injector tube( clear plastic part) slides inside the black rubber air gap fill injector tube. then this assembly slides into part # XXXXX and then put it back together. when you take this apart you will see how it goes together. the diagrams are no longer available so I cant show you that, just watch when you take this apart and you will see. just loosen the clamps on both sides and pull the hoses off. watch how they have it together. thats all I can do , thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Hi, Bryan
Thanks for your help. I ordered the parts. Look forward to fixing it.

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