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Will you please tell me where to find the model number? I looked on the stove and can't find it.
It's an Amana First Edition
Model # XXXXX
The broiler looks o.k.
Turning on the broiler, the thing to the Right of the midline of the oven glowed, then the center larger thing flamed.
When I set the oven to bake at 300, I heard slight clicking (sort of like I heard when the oven was working when it was heating up)
I haven't tried the oven in about 2 years but as I remember it, it seemed like it sounded like it was heating up but never did. Just stayed cool after about 10 minutes of preheating.
Thank you so much for your help with this!
I've left the oven on 300 degrees while we've been working on this. The oven was warm, but not hot ( about 100 degrees)
I removed the burner cover (which was hot enough to need pot holders to remove it) and see that the bottom ignitor is glowing.
The glowing ignitor at the bottom of the oven isnot parallell to the (gas tube?) It's at a slight angle away from the center tube. I don't smell gas or hear gas coming from the tube or from anywhere in the oven.
what do you think?
Are they the same ignitors?
How do I remove the top ignitor?
So, instead of switching the ignitors - because the top one is difficult to do, you're recommending that I try using a volt meter to check the volts on the lower ignitor?
Are amps and volts the same thing?
How would I check the ignitor for amps or volts?
Would that be a less expensive step to take (to check the volts on the ignitor before buying a new one?)
The ignigtor is really hot and seems to be glowing as hot as the top ignitor.
I haven't used the oven in about 2 years but from what I can remember, when it first started to go, the oven would work for a little while and then cool down with the ignitor still glowing/warm.
I'm trying to find the least expensive way top fix this.
Yes, I'm pretty sure that's what happened when it 1st started to go.
I'm looking at the range ignitor #31940001 online and see the part. It's got 2 wires coming out of the back. If I get another ignitor, do I just disconnect the old 2 wires and replace them with the new wires?
Also, why do you think I need the new bracket part #0063757
O.k. Thanks for your help with this.
Also, what is the bracket part #0063757 for?
Is that just the metal cover of the ignitor?
why don't I just use the old cover?
I found a great website while waiting. It's called Fixitnow.com
I wonder if this might help you in any way.
Appliance Repair Revelation: Troubleshooting a Gas Oven That Won't Fire Up
If you have a gas oven that's not firing, don't be bonehead and automatically assume the valve is bad (hint: it's usually not). What else could it be? Ah, Grasshoppah, read and learn.
You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface ignitor) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. But you would probably be wrong. Many $$ wrong. You gotsta measure the current drawn by the ignitor before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that snaps open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The ignitor is wired in series with the gas valve. As the ignitor ages, its resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. Consequently, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking. This service sheet illustrates the main players in the ignition system and how to test them.
Here's another picture that shows the main components in a gas oven. The big thing to notice is the difference in current draw between the round and flat ignitors. Look, there's just no substitute for measuring the current draw--this is the gold standard for diagnosing gas oven ignition problems. I'll let you in a little secret, though: if the ignitor glows but the oven takes longer than three minutes to fire up then, 97.98745987% of the time, the problem is a bad ignitor. Here's another tip: if you buy the ignitor through this parts link and that doesn't fix it, you can return the ignitor for a refund. Who else but the Samurai will make you a deal like that?
I've talked to lots of shotgun parts-changers about this problem. These are guys who can't be bothered with the theory of operation. Besides, they already know everything anyway, so they just shoot from the hip and end up replacing a bunch of parts that were still good. They blew beaucoup bucks on a new valve and just can't understand why the oven still won't fire up. But now, you know why.
To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.
From what I see on Fixitnow.com, you're probably right about the ignitor. Why do I need the bracket?
I've unplugged the oven, unscrewed the bracket covering the ignitor and tried to take the ignitor out. the 2 wires seem to be attached to something behind the back panel of the oven. How do I access the place where they are attached to remove the old ignitor and replace it with a new one?
The picture of the replacement "ignitor with a short ceramic housing and connector" shows the small (plastic?) connector at the ends of the 2 wires. It looks like when I find the end of the old ignitor where it plugs into the oven, it will be easy for me to just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Will it be that easy? How do I unplug the old ignitor?
You wrote, "one side hooks to the valve and other ties in with the old wire ,,, it may look like its going into the cabinet but it most likely just stuck in the hole to keep it out of the way"
1. How do I disconnect the old ignitor? Do I need to remove the back panel behind the oven? Do I need to remove the bottom panel on the inside of the oven? What will I find when I remove the panel? The replacement part shows the 2 wires are connected in one small connector. It looks like it plugs into something.
Is the old ignitor with 2 separate wires, one hooking into the valve and the other tied in with the old wire?
2. Do I need to buy the bracket?
O.k. I understand that the new ignitor might be a different shape so the new bracket would be necessary.
You wrote: " you will need to pull the bottom panel in oven out, take off the burner plate, take the burner tube loose and raise it to get to the two screws holding the ignitor to the burner tube ,,, then unplug the one that goes to the gas valve and untie the other one ,,,, sometimes the screws are really hard to get loose"
The new replacement part #31940001 has the ignitor attached to one small piece. So it looks to me like it would plug into something. You wrote that I'd find 1 (?wire) going to gas valve and the other (wire?) tied to something else - What's the other wire attached to?
I called the parts store and they said the description for that part is an ignitor w/ porcelian base, a 2-pin connector with 12" leads.
Is that 2-pin connector the thing that would plug into a newer version of gas ranges?
Are you saying that I'd have to:
1. cut that connector off the wires and,
2. attach one wire to the gas valve and,
3. attach the other wire somewhere else?
How would I attach the 2 new wires?
You wrote "unplug" the one that goes to the gas valve. How will it be pl.uged in to the gas valve?
You wrote "untie" the other one. Is that other one attached with a screw? What's it attached to?
What do you mean when you say, "If the new ignitor comes without spades"
What are spades?
If, with the new ignitor, I cut the connector piece from the two wires, you're saying I should tie the new wires to the old wires? Shouldn't I detach the old wires and then tie the new wires to the connections where the old wires were connected?
Will you be more specific please?
Please tell me step by step what I should do once I get the new ignitor.
Let me know if this sounds right:
1. Open the bottom panel to expose the connection of the old ignitor.
2. Disconnect the two seperate old wires from where ever they're attached.
3. Cut the small plgu from the end of the new ignitor to expose both new wires seperately.
4. Peel back the insulation on the old wires, don't worry about any bare metal being exposed past the insulation on the wires and attach the wires to wereever the old wires were attached.
5. It doesn't matter which of the 2 wires is being used for each connection.
Does that sound right?
O.k. Thanks for your help. I'll check with a few more people to see if that's the way to go. I don't want to take any chances with a gas range. Once it's fixed, if that's the way it's fixed and if it works, I'll o.k. the payment. In the future, it might help your customers if you give them step by step instructions right away. I know that would have helped me.
I hope you have a great 2009.
O.k. thanks -
When I take the bottom panel off, I'm hoping it will be easy. I just had a hard time understanding what you were telling me.
Thanks again for your help. I'll send payment when it's done.
I hope you have a good day too.