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Bob Schauer
Bob Schauer, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 427
Experience:  30 years experience in commercial and domestic appliance repair
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I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL DRYER LEC7848DQO AND I GUESS THE EXHAUST

Resolved Question:

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL DRYER LEC7848DQO AND I GUESS THE EXHAUST WAS PLUG. THE DRYER BLOWER WORKS BUT IT DOESNT COME HOT. I CHECKED THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR CURRENT ON BOTH SIDES, 120V EA. ON THE FLUFF AIR AND ELECTRONIC CYCLES THERE IS NO CURRENT AT THE HEATING ELEMENT ON THE THERMOSTAT SIDE. HOW CAN I CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR DAMAGE OR WOULD YOU KNOW IF ITS DAMANGE FROM THE INFO I GAVE YOU. OR DO YOU KNOE WHATIS WRONG
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Bob Schauer replied 5 years ago.
HelloCustomer my name isXXXXX check voltage to the element since I assume you have a voltmeter is to check across both terminals of the heater. If you don't read 230v then keep your meter probe on the line that comes directly from the incoming terminal block. Move the other probe down to the thermostat that is next in line to the element. Put it on the side that would be incoming power to that control. If you read 230v then that thermostat is open and needs to be replaced. If you don't measure voltage there then move to the other thermostat and check the same way. If you don't find electricity at that point then you will probably have to move to the temperature selector switch. I would say though that if a plugged vent caused the problem, it was probably both the cycle thermostat and the hi limit thermostat are both out. What happens is the cycle thermostat sticks closed and the machine starts to cycle on the hi limit but the customer usually doesn't notice unless they take the clothes out right after the cycle ends and feel the clothes being too hot. I hope this will help you to resolve you problem. Be sure to clear that vent if you haven't already. Thank you for using Just Answer. Bob
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

HI BOB, NO 230V. AT THE HEATING ELEMENT. FROM THE CYCLE SLECTOR KNOB THE POWER GOES TO THE THERMO CUT-OFF (THE THERMOSTAT AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER BOX) POWER ON THE SLECTOR KNOB SIDE AND NONE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TERMOSTAT. NO OHMS ALSO. THEN WIRE GOES TO THE BLOWER HOUSING THERMOSTAT. I HAVE OHMS THERE. THEN WIRE GOES TO THE THERMOSTAT NEXT TO THE HEATING ELEMENT. I HAVE OHMS THERE. THEN THE WIRE GOES .TO THE HEATER AND THEN INTO THE BASE OF THE DRYER.

STARTING FROM THE INCOMING POWER TO THE HEATER I HAVE 120V IF I PROBE TO GROUND OTHER THAN THAT, PROBING FROM FEED TO HEATER TO OTHER SIDE OF HEATER OR TO ANY OTHER THERMOSTATS I HAVE NO 230 READING. ANY WAY TO CHECK THE THERMOSTATS WITH THE OHM METER IF I DISCONNECT THE WIRES OR SHOULD I JUST CHANGE THE THERMOSTATS THANKS DENNIS

Expert:  Bob Schauer replied 5 years ago.
Ok, if you don't have continuity on that thermostat, replace it. You can do a straight continuity test on those thermostats. They are just temperature actuated switches so they should show no resistance at all. I think that is you problem and unless you have other questions I will just thank you for using Just Answer. Bob
Bob Schauer, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 427
Experience: 30 years experience in commercial and domestic appliance repair
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