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I toke the float apart and looked at the switch, it looked fine, I measured the voltage between the lead feeding the float switch and it read 2.7 volts with the cycle started( the point where the water valve should be turning on).
The model is Kenmore (Whilpool ) 665.15912.
Resistence at the water silenoid is .0672 .
The Switch is OK.
I removed the front panel, the control board shows no heated area, haven't checked the thermo resistor that is on it
I did notice by the exhaust air vent the wires going to it looked tike they heated up. I presume this is so sort of Hi temp cutoff switch?? Could this have overheated and caused the votage to the water valve shut off?
" I think you are missing the neutral to this" not sure what this means, I am measuring the voltage between the wires.
Thanks for the help!
Tried again with all wires and to ground
There is no 110 at the valve.
There is no 110 to the wire feeding the float switch.
Put a Jumper across the door switch.
There is 110 on both black wires going into the front of the control panel.
There is no voltage to the blue/black wire plug at the vent
There is no voltage to the white plug at the vent. Maybe this only works on the heat cycle?
The control panel seems to come on as normal saying 95 minutes, this is the point where we normally hear the water filling, and when I checked the voltages at the vent float and valve.
"Check all the switches in the top" I presume you mean door switch as there another one? The control panel buttona seems to work.
Starting to seem like the contol panel (however impropable) to me.
I would press accept button but I'm afraid it would end the session.
but I will certainlly do it!
I will check the relays, wish it had been a cheaper solution!
Hi Bryan:Yeah I know what you mean about these boards lasting! Comsumer Reports says the avarage life span of an appliance is 7 years! As a comsumer the problem is figuring out what appliances are well made. Paying more does not always work! What do you think of Kichen Aid or Bosh for DW or are the all the same under the hood like computers>
I looked at the back of the board and there is a trace that is burnt. Its coming from on of the pins of the relay (front side close to 110 feeds) Of course this is only the canary. What caused the trace to overhead in the first
place. So before I put a goob of solder to patch the trace I going to test that valve solenoid to see what sort of amps its eating, I don't have a amp meter so i'll use a thin wire for testing. Anyhow that's my final bet!
Hell if that don't work,lets grap a six pack and take it to the dump.
We can probaby come back from there with something better : )