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They're on the exhaust housing inside the dryer. Not hard to find. Remove the screws around the filter on the top and pry clips back with putty knife to get the top and cabinet off.
Have you tested the door switch? We see them go quite a bit.
It sounds like you may not have tested the fuse. If not, test it for continuity to be sure it's bad.
If the thermal fuse went, you want to be sure that you have good air flow in the venting. The fuse goes when the vent does not allow the hot air to be blown away and the dryer overheats.
We would first go to the 220-240 outlet and test it with a volt meter to be sure that there was 220-240 volts there! A surprising number of these turn out to have that as the problem.
Next we would test the for 220-240 volt at the hookup block where the cord hooks to the dryer.
Be very careful because this a lot of voltage and you must be sure not to touch the wrong part when you do this test. If you are not familiar with electrical testing, have someone (who is) do this.
The dryer only needs to have 120 volts to have the controls work and turn the drum. It needs to have 220-240 volts in order to heat
We would go to the thermal fuse only after checking the voltage above. Thermal fuses usually go for a reason..... ie... the vent hose is kinked or jammed with lint.
Please post the model number and I will get you diagram to show you were the thermal fuse is. You'll find it on the cabinet, behind the door in the crevice where the door fits into. It's on a sticker there.
You may have a problem with the voltage (as explained above) because you stated that the vent (and venting ?) is clear.
Please check the voltage before you decide to purchase and replace the fuse. This could save you some time and money.
If the fuse is bad it will test infinity (no continuity) with an ohm meter.
The thermal fuse is shown below as part 59
Let me know if you would like more information.