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OK, This is what i have found with this model from my experience. First yes you would need those switches again. However, With the switch assymbly out pull the metal inbetween the oven cavity and the control area out slightly. So where the door hooks go threw to ctah the switch. What happens is it is slighly bent inward and causes you to go through door switches faster because it's really not making good contact. By pulling that section out a little it makes better contact, But yes you are describing a switch problem. But don't think they are bad just yet. If you pull out the assembly you can verify which switch is bad. Using a multi meter. Use the continuity setting if it has 1 or use the Ohm's setting. Should read 0 on a good switch. Hook your leads up to each one and push the button to confirm if there good or bad. also make sure door is aligning good. If you have any other questions on this let me know. Be glad to help further.
Sounds bad to me to... lol.. Ok here's the part#'s for the switches i'll give you to diagram with both part numbers. on diagram part 1445 is part number WB24X817 and on diagram part 1446 is part number WB24X10047. You can find these switches at most appliance places i use apwagner.com. And unfortanetly i can't change your deposit info. Here's the diagram.. And thank you,, Dave
No problem... lol... let me know if you have any other questions regarding this matter and thank you for the accept.
I am told by the appliance parts supplier that your micro-switch part # XXXXX (for the upper switch), does not match with what they show for the model JVM1542WF 002. They show a p/n WB24X10029. I want to make sure I order the correct part the first time. Can you confirm correct part number?
Yes that would be correct also, I was checking and a i found sears and some other places have 2 diffrent numbers. I have confirmed that the 29 number is XXXXX also. Let me know if you need anything else..