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Kelly, Appliance Technician
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I have a Maytag Neptune Dryer MDE5500AZW and I cant get it

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I have a Maytag Neptune Dryer MDE5500AZW and I can't get it to start. The dryer is plugged in, and there are lights on the display but when I press any of the buttons nothing happens. After about 5 minutes it turns itself please.

Hi, thanks for using Does the dryer make any noise when the start button is depressed, like humming or clicking? Is anything coming up on display , like "DO" or anything at all?



Customer: replied 7 years ago.

No noises and nothing on the display.

Okay, I suspect your thermal fuse may be open. It is number 10 in the attached diagram. Do you have basic handtools, like a phillips screwdriver and a meter to test for continuity?


Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Yes I do have a screwdriver and a meter. How do I get to this fuse?
Open the door and remove the four phillips screws. The front panel prys away from the dryer and will hinge forward to lift off the bottom tabs. Once the front panel is off, I believe you can access the fuse without removing the bulkhead. If you need to remove the bulkhead, let me know and I can guide you.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Give me a couple of minutes and I will try the first way.
Sounds good...let me know. I just can't remember if the bulkhead needs to come off to access the fuse...I haven't had one open for a while.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
We have the cover off and want to know if there is more than one thermal fuse?
No, not that would cause it to not start. There is one on the element can but it shuts down heat only. The machine would still start. Is that thermal open or is it good?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
We see two near the front with grey wires and they are both closed.

Ohm out the door switch to be sure it is closing when depressed. The thermal fuse looks like the picture below, just to be sure....



Part 516650

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Checked the thermal fuse, it is ok....Is the door switch the little button or is the the little female thingys on both sides of the drum for reversing the door.
The little button.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
How do I go about that?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
It has three wires going to it.
One is for the light. Test the two that do not go to the light socket.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
They are both ok. Now what?
Sounds like the board may not be energizing the relay to fire the motor. Remove the rear panel and take a look at the control board. If there are burn marks, problem solved. If not, we can do some voltage checks.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

I don't know if this means anything but over the last month or so it has been beeping during the night until we turn it completly off. We have seen the DO a couple of times and opened and reclosed the door and it worked again.


We will check board now, give us a few minutes again thanks.

That does help...I put my money on a burned board!
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sorry my husband just mentioned this to me. I'm always the last to know...we are just taking the back off now.
Huh, sounds like my house! Except I am the last one...but, I have three girls! I am the odd man out!
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Just checking for any burn marks closely. Will be right back.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Don't see any visible burn marks
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
How do we go about with the voltage checks?
Let me pull up a schematic...this may take a minute.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
We have the schematics from behind the machine. Do you have a number you can give us?
I believe I may have given you some misinformation. The thermal on the heater can is in line with the motor...check that thermal. It is also white but will be oval shaped and plastic, mounted right on the heater can.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Just checked and it is fine.


As mentioned before we do have the schematics for the entire electrial if you have a number for that.

Okay, on the control, test BB1 connector, black wire to ground for 120 VAC with the door closed, machine off.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
The BB1 is empty and no wires unattached.
My schemati shows BB1 as the motor connector. A grey and black wire....any loose wires hanging around?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
No loose wires. The original schematics show that BB1 should be empty. The schematics show a grey and black wire just below the BB1 which is identified as the "Motor Drive Relay"...would this be the one you are asking for? This black wire leads to the thermal fuse.
That's the one. You should have 120 VAC from black to ground at all times. That is from L1. If you shut the door, see if you get 120VAC at grey to ground when you push start.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Ok, we are just putting the door back on so we can try this. Be right back.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Getting 120 from black but start button is flashing and won't respond.

I am going to send you a link to the service manual so you can read through the troubleshooting section...too much to type!


Try this...

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Would there happen to be a reset button or something like that....
Only unplugging it for about 5 sounds like the board is bad. Everything checks out. Most of these machines have a 5 year warranty on the control, though. I can check yours with your serial number.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Sorry, just reading the manual you sent. For some reason after I sat down to read it my husband checked the dryer again and it started. Go figure. Anyhow, I have saved the manual in case this happens again. I'm not sure what to do now.


Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you but the dryer started working for a couple of loads and now it is doing the same thing again.
I would recommend replacing the old is this machine? With a serial number I can look up the warranty info for you...
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
The machine is around 5 years old. The serial number is XXXXX
Your machine was made in April 2003. You may have warranty on the control, as it is covered for 5 years. So, if you purchased the machine after 11/03/2003, it is still covered, parts only. There is no matching registration, so you have never had any warranty work done to it.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Would you happen to know the pricing for a control? And does that mean the whole board behind the display panel?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I'm not sure how confident you are in it being the control panel. If it is the control panel, how much will it cost approx. and I don't have a bill of sale because the dryer came with the house in which we have only been here for 2 months. I'm not sure if I should order the part and install it ourselves or if it should be done by a qualified person.

The control is the only part that is not mechanical. Electronics have a tremendously high rate of failure and I am pretty confident that the control is your faulty component. Of course, without being there to physically test the dryer, I cannot be 100% sure. If you are concerned about replacing the board unnecessarily, you might consider paying for a service call, which will likely run around $100 with an independent servicer or around $170 if you call Sears. The benefit of using a servicer is if they replace the board and it does not take care of it, it's their oops. I have a fair amount of time into considering your responses to the tests I had you perform and I suspect the control, but you are the one paying for the parts. I would follow your gut instinct, whatever you think is best. The only thing I ask is that you click the ACCEPT button so I may be compensated for the time I have invested into helping you with your dryer. Let me know how this turns out.


P.S. The control is part number 33003028 and runs about $195.00 from

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