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Is your drain hose higher than the washer control panel?
Please post your model number so that we can see what you are looking at and check that error code.
Thank you for your patience. I want to be thorough so that we give you the correct information.
Is your washer drain hose higher than the control panel? Please check this.
Is the washer drain hose fitted tightly into your houses drain pipe maybe even taped into it? Please check this.
Please only after you have checked above can you answer these -
Did you test the drain pump before you replaced it?
What test did you do and what were the results?
Why did you decide to replace it or what protocol did you use to decide it should be replace?
Can you tell me if the machine states "made in the Germany" or "made in Mexico"?
The model number shows up ok (at sears listings). There are several different versions that are called Kenmore HE2.
Let me know what you find and we'll take it from there.
When you say that the washer will not come out of drain cycle. Do you mean that the unit will not spin the clothes after the water has drained?
I had thought you stated you were not able to do a wash? Are you able to washer and drain and there is just not spin?
Ok. Good work. Thank you for your patience.
Two things to consider -
Although you remove the sock from the pump, there may very well be something else that is in the outer basket between the tubs.
The setup on this machine warns that a drain hose that is too tightly fitted into a your drain stack may create a vaccum. If you think this is a possibility, try loosening up the drain hose so that air can get in there also. I'm just trying to be thorough so we eliminate the easier stuff.
I haven't checked the drain pump in the technician manual. However, usually they show a test that will confirm if the pump is bad. I agree with you that the old pump was probably ok.
The drain hose idea would be nice if that turns out to be your problem. I include it only to thorough. I'm not holding out too much hope on this solution. However, there really needs to be a bit of air between the water going in and the drain. You shouldn't have too much going in. The unit only comes with 4 feet? You must have added something.
Your repair manual will show you how to remove the cabinet and further disassemble the machine. I must warn you the further you get on this model the more complicate it really gets.
You can also go back to the pump. Disconnect the boot that goes to the pump and then have someone slowly turn the drum to see if anything comes back toward the pump ... maybe loose change, keys, small hankerchief, under garments, etc.... With a little bit of luck this may yield an easier fix.
If none of this yields a good result, check the repair manual for testing the ECU.
It's 2:37 am here and I will have to go to work in the am. So, I'm signing off. I'll check back with you tomorrow.
I'm sorry that we haven't found a easy solution to this. I just got in from work. I was not able to check in until now. I know you're disheartened. However, we will find and fix this.
When you removed the rubber accordXXXXX XXXXXke boot that goes to the pump did you also have someone turn the drum slowly to see if something else came around toward the boot? Please do that if you haven't already.
Above you indicated that you have the Service Repair Manual for this machine. There should be a series of tests including those that are diagnostic for the CCU. Are they in your manual?
I can go thru them. However, it's much faster if we can reference what is already there.
However, we need to eliminate two things first.
Please try this. Check that the wiring to the pump that you talk about above is tight and secure and reassemble the rubber boot on to the pump. Take the drain hose out of your house drain stack. Put a large bucket of water on the top of the washer and hold the drain hose at the top of the bucket. You should only have the original drain hose on the machine (approximately 4 feet long). The hose should go up to the top the machine. Unplug the washer. Wait 10 minutes. Plug the washer back in. Have someone start the washer on the shortest wash while you hold the hose. Be prepared to stop the machine if the bucket becomes full.
Let me know what happens when you do this. Please tell me everything that you see.
If nothing has changed, please go to this next -
I would like to you test the pressure switch which is shown is on page 5-2 of the repair manual. This tells the washer that the is water in tub. I'm looking to find your problem quick and not have you buy a part that doesn't fix it.
Let me know if you can't find the pressure switch test and I will get that to you.
If you find it, let me know how the pressure switch tests out.
Here is the manual that you need. Try this site and choose the "Free" side. Don't use AOL.
OR you can send an email to [email protected]. I will reply with a repair service manual in PDF file format attached to the email. If you have adobe you'll be able to open it. It also will open with some other appilications.
I'm sorry that I thought that you had this. This will make everything much more clear!
If the site downloads to you ok you won't have to send the email. That was just a back up in case you weren't able to download.
I will check into this post over the weekend. It depends on how busy we are at the shop.
Yes, it does make sense. It doesn't know when the tub is empty so it keeps on draining. Just be sure you followed the procedure in the book exactly.
I read the information at the other site and have to believe that it is the pressure switch (especially with the test you just performed).
If you want to be 100% then test the new part at the parts place in front of them before accepting the part! If it tests ok on the pins that were bad on yours it would confirm it. I don't think that they would object to that (they could watch to be sure you don't short the part out).
I would tell them that you tested the old one and it was ok. What ever else you say is up to you. I'm kind of old school about that stuff. I would tell them I did install it if they asked and take my lumps... but that's me. If the old one is in the same condition that you received it in I would hope that they wouldn't have a problem taking it back.
Great work! We knew you would get it done!
What they don't mention in the manual is that there can be a mechanical failure of the part that does not show up on the electrical test!
Thank you for the complement. If you get a chance to put that in the "Feedback" section I would really appreciate it. That's where others get a chance to see the results that of our work.