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This model number is XXXXX partial. However, it tells us that Whirlpool built it for Kenmore. Generally these machines have an error code that is 7 blinks and a pause. We see that code on the "Clean" light.
You can flip the circuit breaker in your house for the dishwahser off for 10 minutes to see if the board will reset when you flip it back on.
Try this and let me know how you make out.
If you already have, please check to see if the it's 7 blinks and a pause on your blinking light and we'll take it from there.
Your dishwasher could have a heater circuit problem (depending on the age) or this could simply just be water colder than it is used to getting (less likely).
Repeatedly press the Heated Dry and Hi-Temp Wash(scrub) which ever yours has untill all the LED lights come on, press cancel twice and try the dishwasher again making sure to run the water at the kitchen sink till it is hot before starting the dishwasher, if this trips and locks you have a problem with the heating element, or temp sensor.
Press the heated dry button followed by the normal cycle button, and then repeat once. You should see all of the lights come on for a second or two, and then the dishwasher will work again.
If you haven't already, take a look under the kick plate in front to see if there is a schematic tucked in there somewhere. Whirlpool has put their diagnostics for specific models on these.
I don't have the specific repair manual for you model.
So, if the above combination (above) does not work here are two more that have worked for me.
HiTemp Wash + Air Dry + HiTemp Wash + Air Dry in less than 5 secor Hi Temp Scrub/Scour + Air Dry + Hi Temp Scrub/Scour + Air Dry in less than 5 sec
Let me know how you make out and if you have any other questions. I'll check back later.
What ever you do don't run out and buy a new control board right away. I've seen too many of the new boards not fix this issue with these dishwashers. Some even fix it for a month and the same problem comes back.
Yes, that can absolutely cause a blinking light.
I can not locate the model by that number above. I believe you have too many digits. I tried eliminating digits from the back of the number with several different combinations. However, I can not find it.
Does your model have any dial that you turn?
I tried that one. No good. However, if it helps to figure it out, let me tell you this.
The 665 is good (tells us Whirlpool made it).
There is usually 8 more digits after the dot.
Yes, your son he does have good eyes and that is the model number! Good work. I miss having those eyes, also.
This model is older than the ones that I gave information to you about above.
From the information that we do have about the problem I would go with either a bad button or something with the door lock (little more common).
The important question is - Does the schematic tell you that specifically the "sani rinse light" will blink when any button is stuck? If so, then yes the button is the way to go and it looks like the board has to be replaced because you can't just replace the button.
The standard procedure for those that have the patience would be to dissassemble the the door and examine everything. Your looking for either mechanical and/or electical problem. The electical sometimes is shown with a burned wire, harness and or board.
That board is less than many (but still a bit expensive $125 to $150).
Let me know if you need any more information.
There is also a repair manual that would give you a step by step on this model -
My opinion is that there is a good chance that the door lock is bad. A lot of these end up being the cause. You won't know until you take the thing apart and check it both mechanically and electrically. Does it appear to be working coreclty mechancially? It's time consumming.
I also know that a lot of the servicers would just jump on the board and replace it because it's quicker. However, sometimes you replace it to find out it's something else.
If you decide to do this yourself the most important thing you should do is disconnect the electircal from the house circuit. It's too easy to fry the board if you don't and then you will be replacing the board.
Also, we're here if you need any help and/or get stuck. It's not a hard repair to do. I think you'll need a star or torx driver.
You can check each of the buttons to see if any appear not to engage correctly. That was what your tech sheet was pointing to.
Check the wiring harness for tight secure connections.
Check all other wiring connections.
Check the door switch electrically to see if it will close the circuit when engaged with an ohm meter.
Did you find any moisture inside? If so, dry area up completely.
Carefully plug back in dishwasher (being sure you do not have anything exposed that might touch something else that would cause a short. Check voltage at door switch and check to see that voltage it coming to the board.
Let me know what you find.
Great work! You deserve a big hand. It very likely is something that was loose. This is why I don't recommend buying a new board right away.
Thank you for the positive feedback.
I'm sorry. There's something intermittent going on. It very frustrating when one of these problems come back like this. You did touch it though!
Did you run thru that check list above? Did everything on the check list come back ok?
One other item that has had issues from time to time is the sensor that tells the dishwasher that it's full (and because it isn't confuses the machine). Check the water sensor (which is part 32) is free and not jammed in the up position -
If you're confident about having checked all those items then it's would be time to replace the control board.
I thought about this today. This is definitely worth tyring.
You may be able to resolve this by taking the door apart and cleaning all the parts with electronic contact cleaner (available at electronic stores). Clean all the electrical connections on the board and to it. Clean any connection that you see there.
The board if it's got bad contacts may have had the contacts temporarily fixed when you where working with the parts. A good cleaning of the board contacts and harness might resolve this so that you don't have to replace that board.
All the parts must be dry before reassembling and before you put the power back on.
Let me know how you make out.