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When you said the temperature in the Freezer dropped 2 degrees, what was the actual temperature?
This morning it was 48 degrees inside after i vacuumed it out and 30 min. later it had dropped to 46 degrees and i thought it was all better until i came home and now it is warm but i have not measured the temp.
mod. GSS25TGMF ser. RD406602
Can you Check to see if you have alot of frost build up on the back of the refrigerator,
then we can go from there,
I can open the doors (either one) about 1" and see the light is off.
Opening more than 1" and the light comes on and the fan stops running
Before going any further into diagnostics the best thing to do in this case is to pull of the back panel to the freezer and get a visual of the evaporator, basically that is the coil of tubes behind that panel, If you could remove that we can go from there further on,
ok the cover is off and there is no frost.
Can i send you some pictures !
Yes clean and cool
Is there a reset button or fuse to check ?
Basically the next thing we need to check is we need to make sure the compressor is running. You will be able to determine this simply by placing you hand on top of it, If it's not running you won't feel anything, if it is, it should be warm and you will feel it vibrate.(Could be warm and not running too) The Compressor should be running when the evaporator fan is running. The fan that is down by the compressor(condensor fan) will be running also. If the condensor fan is not running it will cause the compressor to overheat and shut off. And that means the compressor will be warm and not running when the evaporator fan is running.
Can you check that for me, Thanks for being patient, we will get to the bottom of this
I measured the interior temp is now 60 degrees both sides
ok, what are the parts ? contactors ? how much will it cost me ?
So the compressor may still be good ?
How do I check ?
Do you have a VoltMeter?
(Basically this is the relay)
unplug the frig and remove that box the is covering the electricals on the compressor, you want to check and make sure you have continuity between the pins, they basically make a triangle, so you want to check from top to bottom left pin and then check from top to bottom right pin then check across the bottom pins.
Let me know how you make out.
between top and bottom left = 4.3
between top and bottom right = 3.5
across the bottom = 4.3
The compressor is good, now lets switch the volt meter to vac and check to see if we have voltage going to those wires that plug into the electricals. Should read 115 or so.
Make sure when you plug in the refrigerator, those wire aren't touching anything, then plug it in and put your meter on them and see what we get.
i have no voltage at those 3 terminals
but the compressor is good ?
Are you checking the orange and black wires? That is where you want to check it at.
You are going to check the wires that plug into the parts that I listed earlier. Not the compressor pins this time.
The reading that you are getting on your compressor shows that it is most likely good when checking continuity.
Ok, then I recieve a PM from another Expert earlier and he was right. You have a bad Main PCB and the part # XXXXX XXXXX that's Number 801 on the diagram I sent you earlier here is the cost,
use WR55X10552 when you order a new one, that will get your Refrigerator up and running again.
If you have anymore questions I will be Happy to assist
I figure this refrigerator to be about 8 yrs. old. Do you know how long they last ?
And if it was a bad compressor how much do the cost ? cause if that were the problem I would have had to have a service man change it because of the freon and soldering involved and a service call would be extra right ?
Thats it, Nothing really to it, Just unplug the Refrigerator, take out the old one, plug up the new one, plug the fridge back in and compressor should hum away. After all we checked thats the only thing it can be. We have no voltage getting to the compressor when the fans are running, that's what sends the voltage there. I'm confident that if you replace the board you will be good to go. I can't pull up a cost for the compressor GE's site is not letting me select that.
Its not giving me the option for #725 on the diagram I sent you. They are usually around $125-$150 or so. I can't give you a life expectancy on your fridge, I believe you should get many more years of cooling out of it though. It would be worth replacing the Board.
Thanks again for using JustAnswer.com I hope I was able to assist you properly and hope you have found this site easy to use. Any more Questions please feel free to ask. I will do my best to provide you with the most accurate knowledge I have.
Ok, well thanks so much for your help and i will try and get that board locally if i order it well it may take a day or two longer
Main PCB #WR55X10174 $111.09
Good Luck with your Appliance Repair use the board WR55X10552 its a replacement for the original, I don't believe the other # XXXXX be available.
I have seen mark ups of $180 or more. Don't let local guys charge too much.
That $111 dollar price is suggested Retail. Should be close to that.
Dealer Cost on that is around 80 -100
Again good luck, I hope this information has helped you and you are satisfied with your answers.
Thanks Again for Using JustAnswer.com
I did click the accept button last night and hope you did get paid !
I purchased the board today and plugged it into the refrigerator then plugged in the refrigerator and the compressor started right away !
You fixed it , thanks Jack