Acura Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
On my Acura TL 2004, Since couple if weeks my A/C is not working anymore and only pushing ambient air. A/C Clutch doesn't seem to kick in and no fuse is blown of according to Helms manual. However I have an error E2 on sensor #9 of inboard self diagnostic system of the Air conditioning unit. All other sensor look in good range. Where is that sensor located ?
Where should I look. Couple of hints of tips for me to nail that problem rather than getting my car for expensive research and pieces replacement.
Also, I noticed a clear lower efficiency of my A/C system last year, barely able to push fresh air of normal hot day. This year A/C do not kick in. Look like it died slowly rather than perfectly working state to nothing.
EDIT: Was still curious and found that running the self diagnostic test will the engine was running gave a different code. (Key at ON, start then hold OFF + push 5 time the recirculate button) to start the self test. This code are represented by segment in the 88-88 temperature digits. My TL result is displaying consistent error in with the segment L and N which reference to this:
L - An open in the passenger's air mix air mix control motor circuit.
N - A problem in the passenger's air mix control linkage, door, or motor.
I now remember that the A/V inefficiency I noticed last year was mainly coming from the passenger's side throwing barely cold air and driver side pushing cold one.
So I suspect the air mix control and/or motor to have completely died now. Is this possible the A/C is now not starting up for safety because it detect the passenger motor error ?
Hi Sir or Madam, welcome. I'm acramstr. And I will be assisting you today. It wont usually make the compressor stop when it goes out. but it will cause the system to blow warm on one side. The fact that the compressor wont run sounds like the system is low on Freon. Have you checked to see if the system is full of Freon yet? You didn't say anything about the inside fan so I will assume it is working.
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Thanks for the answer.
I do live in Quebec, Canada where we have cold and hot seasons. Fan and heater did work perfectly last winter and still running fine. Blower is still pushing a lot of air if put at maximum, but air never get warm or cold since the beginning of hot season. Both under the hood radiator fans do work and start in relation with heat sensor (No always ON or OFF)
I had Freon replaced last year when I felt the A/C system was getting weaker. At that time system was correct and didn't report any leak and/or problem. I didn't test the Freon level this year since i noticed it is not working.
Is there any sensor that can make compressor get into safety and not start ? Like Freon pressure sensor ? If so how can I test it out ?
How can I test out the compressor clutch circuit ?
Ok, a quick check is to put the system on its lowest temp setting and hit auto. Both radiator fans and the compressor should come on. If not the Freon level is probably low. We have problems with the service valves leaking, they are on the lines on the passenger side under the hood under the plastic cover. they should be clean and dry . If they are oily or have dirt stuck to them they are likely leaking. There is a pressure switch that will turn the system off if the Freon is low however, To test the pressure switch you need to know the system pressure. You might be able to rent a set of gauges at a local auto parts store. Here is the test for the compressor clutch system. Here is a link to the test https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/89860259/comp%20Copy.pdf
the vent out temp (9) is a calculated number the system uses to estimate the target temp. In my experience it is sometimes not accurate. Here is the chart for the temp code . I would concentrate on the clutch circuit and system pressure.
I did test the A/C clutch according the guide you provided me. Relay and fuse was in working order, and proper voltage is coming to the relay placeholder. By jumping the wire 1 and 2 of the relay place holder i didn't hear any clic from the A/C clutch.
I tested cable from the relay placeholder up to the A/C connector and i have continuity. Tested field coil with 4.1 ohms resistance result which is in spec. Tested plugged connector from ground -> A/C coil -> pin2 of relay placeholder and I do have continuity and a 4.1 ohms resistance too.
1) Is the coil make a subtle clic sound when jumper used to power the field coil or I should hear it loud and clean in a silent home garage environment ? I had small little sparks from the jumping area but no clic from the A/C.
2) Is the clutch can be jammed to the point powering the field coil doesn't engage the clutch ? I guess we can replace this part only rather than the whole A/C ?
3) So, from now on, servicing A/C clutch I guess need A/C to be removed from the car ? If so, does the refrigerant ran be in most part reused if the job is made by a certified A/C expert ? In other word, should I go further in self repair and remove A/C of the car to have it serviced, or it is a good time to stop and bring car for service since I can't save more money anymore doing it myself without the proper A/C tools ?
A mix of the system that is asking me another 15$ (Total 30$) for a short and sweet answer from you.
Missing freon and/or Bad clutch again is the answer. My last question had a couple of questions separated by letters and only one of them got answered which was "Freon can be collected and reused".
Same happened on the first question of all where I also asked about that #9 sensor giving me a E2 code. I had to re-ask you the question after first which restarted the whole 15$ question process.You are probably right about the "freon and/or Bad clutch" answer.
I wanted answer on more of my questions by curiosity. This is the whole purpose of this system no ? Ask an expert questions and to it yourself or simply don't ask and get your car to an expert that will charge you with a big smile ($$$) !