Ok, this would be the first thing I would check. It sounds like it may be getting hot and breaking down.
Is the check engine light coming on while driving?
Ok, the check engine light staying on while trying to start is a good clue. Does it ever come on while driving also?
Didn't do it with the engine light on, but after an episode when the light had gone off. The codes were ----PL301 PL 302 PL303 PL304 Pl305 PL306
I am in Fl. The temp here is mid 70's today..but it also acted up when we had a real cold spell., Baybe more on hotter days? Vic
Ok, Thanks. Acura had a bulletin on these for cold weather issues, so I think we can rule that out.
These are all misfire code and these unfortunately are hard to resolve because there are so many different things that can cause misfire codes, but we will figure it out.
Have you ever had the e.g.r. passages cleaned?
Valve was not repl. Passages clear.
Ok, CLICK HERE to see this service bulletin. The upper intake gasket may be on upside down....I hate to admit it, but I did this once myself. See the upper right of page 2.
The egr valve itself could also be defective. This can be checked with a scanner to be sure. CLICK HERE. See the upper left of page 2.
I have also had a few fuel pressure regulators cause misfire codes.
If the egr passages were cleaned as we mentioned above, the top plate on the engine along with this gasket had to be removed. On the reinstall, the mechanic may have put it on upside down. I did it once myself and have seen it 3 times since then.
Yes, I have seen a few coils fail, but with your codes listed...it is for all 6 cylinders...I seriously doubt that all 6 are going bad at the same time. One way to know for sure is to replace 1 coil on 1 cylinder....if that cylinder misfire code goes away, then you would know you were on the right track.
Keep in mind the egr passages could have been clogged...the mechanic cleaned them solving the problem.....installed the gasket upside down......same symptoms. It's happened before and of course I am not there to see the car, but I would use the diagram I sent to look at the location tabs pictured to be certain....wouldn't take a couple minutes to confirm.
No, one coil would not cause all those codes.
Only left neg, because repair was not complete. I am satisfied with the help you have given me. So far I replaced main relay, Replaced one coil that made no difference in the idle when disconnected. Checked out fuel pump, Gas tank, egr valve, Twice poured in the tank jet cleaner, Replaced a burned out starter, from trying to start car. Within the next day or so, will get the ports cleaned out.But am not confident that that is the problem, as this problem only occurs when car is hot, and there is a temp rise when it is shut off.! then it won't fire on eneough cylinders (or any) to run. eventually with starting, and playing with the gas, can I get it to run. Checked gasket for proper placement.
Thanks for your patience.
Not that I know of. Will check the coolant. Temp gauge always stayed in the middle. I said temp rise, because it was o.k. while running. only acted up after car stood for a short time. If car stood for 1 hr. and cooled down it was o.k. Going down now to check coolent.
Problem is that in Fl. we don't especially concern ourselves with antifreeze. The coolent was low. Added fluid. Tomorrow will see. The temp gauge always stayed at normal temp. BUT By G-D I think you got it.!!!
If there is any way to correct the negative comment, let me know. Write a letter of explanation? or a phone call? Vic
The reason I was asking if there was coolant loss is in rare cases I see head gaskets seep internally. Usually this happens when the car is hot...turned off...then the constant pressure in the cooling system pushes some antifreeze into the cylinders. Then when restarted, of course the coolant in the cylinders will cause the car to be harder to start, then misfire until it gets cleared out.
If no coolant is being added...this is not the problem, but it crossed my mind when you stated the "temp would rise with the engine shut off"
Normally leaving the car for a couple hours would not have any affect on this, but I don't like to rule anything out unless we know for sure.
Keep me posted on this. We will get it.
Your early suggestion of the E.G.R. valve was right on the button!! altho it checked out normal on the scanner. Before pulling the head to check the gasket, decided to disconnect the e.g.r. and run the car without it. Did that for over 2 weeks, and had no problems at all!!! Can't believe after all the hassle I went through with this problem that it is finally fixed, with a valve replacement. Obviusly what was happening was the valve was jamming up under high temps.
I would like to thank you for your patience and expertise. and once again say that the neg mark I gave was only because the repair was not yet complete, and in no way should reflect on your performance. If I could re-rate you as a tech. it would be it A-1 "Top of the line" Thank again Victor
I believe this will work. Click the link below and select "other comments/feedback" from the drop down menu and fill in the other fields. In the comments box, ask them if you can change the feedabck you left for "thebesthonda"
Usually, a moderator gets in back in touch with you within 24 hours.
I really appreciate that.
Click this link.